This modification provides a tophat extension that adds 7mm in height to help clear the umbilical. It includes a fold-up webcam below the tophat. It does not require replacing any parts on the tophat itself and can be considered a "drop-in" modification. No nuts required!
The camera housing is designed around the Arducam USB Camera Module with 8MP Sony IMX219
- (1) Arducam USB Camera Module (Also available on Amazon)
- (1) m3x5x4 heat-set insert
- (2) m3x10 BHCS
- (1) m3x6x0.5 shim
- (6) m2x10 self-tapping screws
- VHB tape
The parts for this mod should be printed with standard Voron quality settings. It is assumed that they will be printed on a Voron V0 or V0.1. All parts in the top-level STLs folder can be printed on the 120x120 bed. The Spacer parts have been split from the CAD in order to accomodate this. They will still need to be rotated 45 degrees to fit. (It is suggested to set the infill angle to 90 degrees to print the rotated parts.)
If you have a larger printer, the un-split parts are available in the STLs/Optional folder.
NoCam Option
If you don't care about the camera and just want the spacers, the right spacer parts (both split/un-split) without the camera stuff are also in the Optional folder.
Note: Place the end of the cable as far forward as possible. You might want to cut away the heatshrink on the end to help seat it better. Notice the position of the cable in the curved portion of the path - this is intended to provide some strain-relief when the camera arm is folded down.
Keeping the cable in the tunnel, flip the right spacer(s) and arm assembly over and press down on the top extrusion until the tabs "click" into place. Install the left spacer(s) similarly.
Place the tophat in place on the left/right spacers and intall the front/rear spacers. It will help to open the door and remove the back panel for this step. Hint for split spacers. Apply VHB across seam before attaching to panel. (Be careful that each panel rests firmly on the shelf of the spacer.)
Cut away the outer portion of the PCB (as close to the inner PCB as possible).
Plug the USB cable into the camera and attach camera base to ball mount. (Note: If the base seems too loose, you may want to scale up the ball mount a bit and reprint. A little loose is OK, because the camera will probably be tilted all the way down for best image position.)
When routing the USB cable through the back panel, take care to keep the cable from interfering with the filament spool. You may need to drill a couple of holes for a zip-tie or two to hold the cable against the panel. Many ways to do this. I cut a slit on the far side of my panel as shown below.
Camera Configuration
The default configuration ("auto") for this webcam didn't work for me. I edited ~/klipper_config/webcam.txt as follows (YMMV):
# Defaults to auto
#
camera="usb"
### Additional options to supply to MJPG Streamer for the USB camera
# Defaults to a resolution of 640x480 px and a framerate of 10 fps
#
camera_usb_options="-r 640x480 -f 10"
Even though this camera is capable of higher resolutions, they don't show enough of the bed.
Fold-up the camera
In use: When opening the door with the camera down, the curved portion of the arm cover will cause the arm to automatically start folding up.
However, it will not fold up completely out of the way without manual assistance. This "feature" is meant to provide a visual cue to prevent breakage.
Spacers too short/long?
The provided one-piece left/right spacers in the Optional folder have been scaled to 100.4% (which fit my V0.1 fine).
If your prints come out differently, I suggest re-exporting the spacers from the CAD and scaling them appropriately.
(The split spacers are not scaled and should fit as is.)
